Tuesday, 8 July 2014

Driving around Laos Part 2

A Bus to Nong Kiaow


It seems that my experience of buses in Asia are permeated this time by characters and driving styles. From Chiang Mai to Pai the death bus rocked my world quite literally, where the driver insisted on veering at break neck speed around every sharp bend up the mountain path. The last bus from Luang Prabang was bumpy, slow and uncomfortably hot, ensuring a need for beer after.


This bus is special. 



Loud Chinese pop blasts out of the speakers and a Laos mother and her two children next to me softly vomit in to clear plastic bags. At first I feel sympathetic, mountain roads and a lack of experience in a winding, noisy, bumpy bus that smells of dog is surely a recipe for motion sickness. It's when the second hour of dramatic puking, after I’ve donated my water only to watch mother discard it on the floor, and a child somewhere up front begins a banal scream that I start to lose my patience. It's a bus not the death star! As if karma heard my unsympathetic thoughts I begin a little nausea trip myself. See how you like it Falang! It must be the Chinese pop music that to my western ears sounds a like a Laos’ entry to Euro-vision.



Finally, mother pats me lightly on the arm, signalling to move forward while holding up her bag of sicky goodies. Seriously?
Littering the road with not only an army of plastic bags but those also filled with your acidic human stomach sludge? Are there no bins where we're headed? I am now devoid of all sympathy.
So as the bus slows to a stop and mother rouses her sickly brood from their respite, I rejoice at their departure, while they carry their trail of destruction away with them. Peace prevails once more.

Nong Kiaow bridge


And when we arrive in Nong Kiaow, we realise that to see a place so beautiful, sometimes you have to suffer to be deserving of the view. Nong Kiaow is separated in two. One area for locals, the other seemingly built of guesthouses. We make our way across the bridge on foot to our designated Falang bungalow, and begin to drink in slowly, the view with a beer Lao on Laos time.

(Only a week later I would culminate my time here with a thirty hour bus journey from Vientiane to Hanoi, where all foreigners were sent to the back civil rights style, a French man dismantled the speakers, a Singaporean was burgled and I left the bus hopeful to never see another overnight bus again.)

Driving around Laos Part 1

Hmong Village, Luang Nam Tha

Bus to Luang Nam Tha, National Protected Area

The local bus takes us to Luang Nam Tha, sans air con but boasting sliding windows that have to be pushed back open after every jolt over the dirt road. The bus guide, wearing a yellow Laos football shirt, asks me about my book and tells me he wants to watch football. I wonder if he means on t.v. or in a stadium. I share my sugary fried coconut.

for half an hour in the stifling heat. It launches over potholes and my bum leaves the seat on several occasions, returning with a jolt to my coccyx. I feel that the fresher air, with the smells of wild flowers and mint is even more welcome than usual.

my
journey and not their own. Which is a topic of travel theory to be discussed another day.

Driving to Muang Sing

Selling eels, Muang Sing market
At 3.30am my alarm rings in to the deep dark, reminding us to dress warmly for the early morning trek through mountain roads bordering China. In convoy we set off out of Luang Nam Tha for the two hour journey to Muang Sing. The promise there is of hidden cultures, away from any Westernisation, where there are no routes for eighteen year olds searching for a drink in a car tire.


Up and up through darkness that relaxes in to mountain mist and morning dew we climb. Eventually we find our way to the market, a melting pot of Hmong, Akha and Black Thai women selling vegetables, home made clothing and eels that try to escape their plastic bowls. The freshest of fresh produce here.  


Noodle broth in pig pens, Muang Sing market

While visiting a beautiful waterfall, just outside of Muang Sing in the golden triangle, I am met with a scene from Stig of the Dump. As we walk to the falls a narrow trail stretches in front of us, leading us up the side of the river. Suddenly the sound of a log crashing through the trees falling behind us breaks our chatter and I look up to see forest debris tumbling after an unknown entity causing this wake of destruction.


“Oh my god is that a snake?!” exclaimed Ciara.
We look in unison at the river a few feet below. An enormous dark green python slithers off the rocks and in to the river.
“That nearly landed on my head”, came the nonchalant ponder.
 
At the waterfall we are greeted by a small, and dry-season-depleted, green rocky resting point.  Water splashes down in to a shallow pool creating a miniature cooling breath and the accompanying view of the golden triangle and it's mountains hold our imaginations. Until I look back to the waterfall and logs for a seat. White plastic food dishes, wrappers, torn chocolate cases and plastic bags litter and mar the scene. My heart sinks and I lose my patience at the rattan sack serving as a bin sits impotently next to the debris. 
These places will not last if they are not looked after and by the locals too. It doesn't take infrastructure to put rubbish in a bin. Taking matters in to my own hands I set about clearing the rubbish heap while my fellow travellers look on. 



A child hides behind her hands among the other many women at Muang Sing market

Wednesday, 25 June 2014

Welcome to Laos: Down the Mekong

Heading down the Mekong...


...On the left is Laos, on the right is Thailand. Tell tale signs show up on each side, Thailand more built and developed, Laos: a green and rural riverside. I feel overwhelmed surrounded by all this beauty: rolling green hills that spill down cliffs to sandy banks and in to the waiting mouth of the river, dotted wooden bamboo huts shrouded in grey cloud.I am impotent to do it justice with my words, but rather lost in awe. As I write a shaft of I light breaks through the sky behind me and on to my page, either ominously or hopefully.

Many travellers make their way to Luang Prabang via the legendary Mekong. Quite a few trip across it, stumble in to a homestay and boat around the delta down in Vietnam. How many people outside of that in the world can say the same? How many photos have you noticed? What do you know of the Mekong apart from it's relevance as a strategic area in the Indochina wars? So questions like these should make any traveller on this trip realise how unlikely it is they should be here.

Let me put it another way. Bamboo farms crop up regularly on hill edges, interspersed with terrainous farmland and distant rain huts perched perilously underneath pylons that hang on to the edge of the crumbling muddy hill wall. Jungle ferns, banks of beaches and occasional fishing boats hint to signs of human life in wilderness. Rocky outcrops hint at a vague promise of limestone karsks further in to the country.


Arriving in Pak Beng for the evening stop I stepped on to a makeshift rubber bottle jetty to the cries of a young goat. To my joy, a small child had commandeered this small vessel like a horse. He tottered around, legs trailing the ground, directing his rather unhappy bleating steed around the hillside before disappearing out of view over a "curve" in the grass.

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"Do you want some opium?" *Jen called to me from across the bar. "We're going to get some an de need five people to go in."

"Hmm", I thought, temporarily losing my senses under the beer Lao and free banana whiskey. I chewed on the prospect.
"I've never done it, what's supposed to happen?"

Failing an explanation, our wiry Laotian restaurateur, Mon, got out his pipe fashioned from an m-150 bottle and some very brown and dead looking bamboo fixed to its' neck and showed us what to do.
"Wait here, I have to get, five minutes". With that, money in hand he hopped on his scooter and drove away returning exactly five minutes later.

"Shall we try it now?" announced Jen.

Back out came the exotic bong. The grassy resin was rubbed in to what I can only describe as an incense stick, pushing it in a drilled hole mid-bottle. A dark cloud drawn in by 5 mouths, tasted like wood, bonfire and dirt. As for the effect I think my previous four accomplices had had most before my turn. The concoction of Thai tequila and Lao Lao (home made whiskey) already had me feeling pretty merry, so I resolved to myself that this new sensation of comfort was a mixed bag (like weed but filthy). I left the others to the brown patch of hedonism and went to bed to cough my way through an ironically restful sleep, waking with a desire to cleanse my lungs.

But I wonder now, how did it become so accepted here? Opium has been smoked here for centuries, but something very much of impact is the huge amount of UEO. During the Vietnam war, the CIA left it's mark on Laos, making Laos the most bombed country in the world. The evidence isn't hard to find, and one documentary "the CIA's Secret War in Laos" details exactly how, as I was to find out when arriving in Nong Kiaw. 30% of bombs dropped on Laos during this time never exploded and it continues to be a harassment for thousands upon thousands of people. Incidentally there is no initiative to clean up the mess they created. So, many Hmong people have resorted to opium trade. 


You can see it in Phongsali where suited Chinese business men rush about on their mobile phones among Hmong tribes women selling the brown elixir. In Luang Nam Tha a band of three ladies patrols the night markets and any restaurant selling bracelets. I asked to take a photo of one of the gang.


"Ok, ok" came a reply with a bunch of outstretched adornments. She stood still for me as I captured her weathered face, her forehead holding on to the strings of her loaded bag. I gave her 10,000 kip for her time, feeling this was the most respectable way. She left me to her comrades, returning briefly with a smile and a bracelet for me. A black fabric strap prize with white painted coffee beans and rows of blue beads.
Hmong tribes woman selling bracelets in Luang Nam Tha

Thursday, 29 May 2014

North Thailand, Festival Land (Pt 2)

Festival Land Part Two: Pai 


View over Pai Canyon
I struggled to keep my eyes open as the van climbed out of Chiang Mai into descending mist from the mountain. Leaving terracotta bricks of the old town, past teak houses and in to forest I struggled until the rammed van succumbed to the driver’s bet with himself to find out how quickly he could execute a circus trick I like to call ‘get passenger posteriors to simultaneously fly in a moving van’. He achieved this most effectively when my seat fell forward a foot on its’ runners and I was within kissing distance of the Thai man’s neck in front of me.

After the switchbacks in death van I arrived slightly nauseous, to Pai; town of hippies, waterfalls and mountain surroundings. I still felt like I was at a festival, with jewellery stalls and street food vendors setting up for the evening, while the temperature dropped from a blistering 35 degrees to a forgiving 25-28.


At Spicy Pai

North Thai Cuisine
I found my bed for the next two days at famous hippy commune Spicy Pai Backpackers. The coming wet season's dramatic clouds prevented clear sunsets, and yet the mists, rolling formations and huge streaks of fork lightning hitting trees only a few kilometres away, brought about an incredible electric atmosphere that wouldn't have been amiss in 'The Never Ending Story'.

An all you can eat buffet was put on for guests and I was allowed in to the culinary idiosyncrasies of north Thailand. BBQ Catfish and soups, pulled pork, sticky rice, roast chicken and a chilli paste that would have worked in Mexican food. Something I wouldn’t have been able to get at a Farang-geared restaurant.

The wind forecast a storm through the big tree-house of Spicy Pai Backpackers, or 'rooftop' as the Germanic Father figure and impossibly tall Stefan called it, I found myself reaching for my hoody while others continued to sweat. During my time in Bali I found myself shivering on my bike, Gloria, some nights during the drive home at 3am with only a thin jumper. It's 7pm. I think I may have acclimatised to Asia.


Storm from Spicy's 'rooftop'

With my layers and leggy denim shorts I felt all I was missing was a pair of Welly-boots and I could have been at Glastonbury.

As my visa grew closer to expiration, 12 hours in fact, I finally managed to find the Khao Soi Jon was raving about back in Chiang Mai. None of us had known what it was so had naturally been unable to track down the elusive Northern delight. It is in fact a coconut-based noodle and chicken broth with a spicy, salty taste topped with fried crispy noodles.




By 8am the next morning I sat on top of my back pack in the open air, whizzing towards the border crossing of Chiang Khong to begin a two day journey down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. The road slipped away from the moving truck, just like my now illegal presence in Siam, land of smiles, lemongrass and dengue.



Wednesday, 28 May 2014

North Thailand- Festival Land (Pt.1)

Part One A weekend in Chiang Mai

Monks walking for Alms in front of Tai Chi at Three Kings Memorial, Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai has no sky-scrapers. In fact the biggest structures are the Wats (temples). The old town is still surrounded by a moat and a fully functioning protective terracotta brick city wall complete with 'gates'. Remnants of an outer wall are dotted about the river where fountains intermittently spray up mist and trees line the water and it is easy to imagine what this place may have looked like back when the wall was complete.

After a whole day's travel with minivan, ferry, minivan again, drop off at BKK, shuttle bus tour around the airport (I enjoy the scenic route) shuttle bus to the correct airport, flight and finally a taxi, I made it to Chiang Mai to meet the glorious gorgeous couple, Katia and Jon for our fourth liaison in three years, across the world. And all in time to see children kick the crap out of each other at Muay Thai

Muay Thai fighters in traditional dress

Kickboxing

From our VIP seats, yes VIP, we saw many a wiry punch and hefty ankle slap to the thigh. To begin, two opponents took to the ring performing a choreographed sequence in the traditional Muay Thai dress of the days of yore and set to the sound of drums and an Asian clarinet. Today the fighters wear shorts far more similar to the shiny gold encrusted kind you get in western boxing, but rolled up to make the kicks more effective. 

"I will not be taking on that ten year old", I leaned to both Jon and Katia. From Katia came a horrified nod, a big grin from Jon. 

Animals!


No I wasn't referring to Backpackers. Chiang Mai Zoo is a hillside town for African, Asian and Australian animals. I was delighted at how well looked after they seem, despite some small enclosures for reptiles and  one maddened-looking Asian black bear so clearly bored of his enclosure. And compared to Tiger Kingdom, where big cats are drugged for a tourist's opportunity at getting close to a top predator for a fucked up cuddle. The pandas being the star attraction were in their own area to draw in more money . As you can guess, the breeding programme wasn't going well and neither panda, showed a hint of interest in anything but sleeping in their bamboo decorated enclosures. Still it was a treat for me to see one in (huge) flesh and I was impressed at the modernity of how to keep such large and dangerous animals in humane but safe areas by using the well known trench system instead of caging up in serious amounts of chicken wire (ahem, London zoo).

child busker at the night markets

At night markets we ate as much stick food, spicy soups, fat noodles and fruit shakes as our plastic bag tasseled arms could carry, to the point of becoming a fat noodle. They are clearly a popular attraction for the amount of Fereng and Chinese tourists amiably dawdling up the street and we easily lost each other on many occasions. But no worries, "what do you do when you lose each other?" Katia motherly questioned Jon and I. "You snorkel!" She announced in her Queensland tongue, smiling at our naïveté.

I felt as though I was at a festival what with the threat of rain, street performers, sparkling lights and the mysterious stalls; and food hawkers with their questionable delights and the relaxed yet packed environment of ease at which people drink in the street. At the Ratchadamnoen road Sunday market it was much the same, only they played the national anthem and EVERYONE stood still and I noticed the air was clear from the lack of cigarette smoking allowed here.

On our night out at Roots Rock Reggae, we were utterly joyous to discover a Thai Ska band, their trumpets and trombones calling back memories of nights in Brixton and at Glastonbury watching The Specials. I came to the conclusion that you could spend a whole year in Festival Land (Chiang Mai) and still not absorb everything on offer. Jon said it reminded him of Melbourne, for myself it felt more like Perth due to it's situation on a river, the very relaxed atmosphere and the arty scene and hidden gems every where you go. It was like when someone hands you a cake box as a surprise and you peer in the white cardboard to find a carefully sculpted delicious treat waiting for you.


Tuesday, 20 May 2014

Departing Koh Chang

Journey to Chiang Mai

Broken boats, Long beach

"I ordered you a healthy baguette to take away!" Do calls to me from the reception desk at Oasis. Her cheery dimples, coupled with her blonde curls give the impression of a very tall Dutch doll.  

The mini van is coming in fifteen minutes and I have just got out of the bungalow and still to find money to pay my bill. The van comes in ten and I clopp heavily down the hill with my giant breakfast sandwich to meet the wheels coming to take me away.

Rewind to six days before.

"I think you're going to enjoy it more than you realise" I say to Dad as the Songthaeuw takes us to Blue Lagoon cookery school.
"Hmmm, cooking is all work for me..."
"Yeah but you get to eat it today!"

Hawker, Khlong Prao
This is how I have stayed on Koh Chang for three weeks. One week getting to know expats, ten days concentrated dose of estranged parent and five more for my birthday party/hangover languor. Seriously, this place is magnetic and it's not just the parties. For those of you who don't know about Elephant Island, it's the second biggest in Thailand, has served as a station in wars during the twentieth century and has only become a traveller outpost in the last twenty years.

Like the monkeys that cling to it's jungle fringed hills, backpackers come from all over and do. not. leave! I nearly became one of them, and could have quite easily if certain factors of reality weren't pulling me back from a self inflicted reverential malaise. Read: too many hangovers to be bothered to book a ticket and deal with twelve hours of travel. Sound familiar?
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 As I stand on the ferry, watching the 'Welcome to Koh Chang' sign grow smaller while I rip in to the enormous ham, egg and cheese focaccia, complete with Dutch mustard mayo; I recall some factors other than drink that pull you back to this island. The sense of community among long-termers paired with some fantastically energetic Thais working in the bars night after night. The people organising beach clean ups who truly care about the island. Then the elephants that want your help or the divers that show you how to dive without disturbance, the tattoo you WILL get because let's face it, you're on Koh Chang, or the myriad of Western, Asian and Thai restaurants to keep you excited. And not forgetting beach sunsets where clouds
turn a blue sky to a pink purple and orange fluffed up sheen.
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Sunset, Lonely Beach

We speed away from the port in the packed van, a decent portion of me wants to go back to the place so easy to belong to. I hope I make the flight, but I know someone back on Koh Chang who hopes I don't and come back, which is nice. 

My grumpiness over leaving is compounded by a desire to avoid the usual small talk and not throw the remains of baguette at the maniacal driver. Ahem, "My name is Lucy, I come from England, I'm 28  and here is a list of all the countries I've been to. Go!" How many best friends are you really going to make on a mini van to Bangkok? And this is strange for me to say because of how many times I've had the conversation about being friendly to people. 

"You never know the opportunity you will miss".

children on swings, Koh Chang East
The Blind date format of making friends gets tiring really quickly. Information exchange on the road is inevitable: names, ages and passport stamps, but does it have to happen immediately? Whatever happened to natural conversation?
I digress. 


 With every swerve in to a blind corner whilst overtaking a truck, my  enormous breakfast sits a little less pretty. I officially hate the driver. On the other hand, Northern Thailand finally awaits and I know I'm going to kick myself for leaving it so late. Don't get quagmired in Koh Chang, everybody does.

 I finally make it to the plane, after being dropped at the wrong airport, being shown the sights of Suvarnabhumi airport (by the way it’s actually pronounced 'Serwanaphoon' to keep you on your toes Ferang!) on the free shuttle bus and a cross city tour of Bangkok to make it to Dong Muang with an hour to spare. She pushes back to the runway so I may trade new friends for old ones at my next destination and my thirst for flights is satiated once more as the sun sets a powder blue in to whipped cream clouds. I am genuinely sad to go, but I must, for dear reader, I have crap to do. A blog to write and start making money off, a course to finish, some waterfalls to conquer and bucket lists to tick off. And a liver to de-bloat.

Pier, Long Beach, Koh Chang



Monday, 5 May 2014

Thailand: crazy for you

Welcome back Fereng


Arriving in Bangkok, intense humidity and 40 degree heat pounded more weight on to the 20kilos hanging off my back. Crazy Bule, now Fereng who tried to walk up Sukhumvit with all I own, got lost far up from my hostel in Thong Long on a street with, as promised by Lawrence Osborne's book "Bangkok Days", many seedy massage parlours, while I ambled around food hawkers. Welcome back to magnetic Thailand. My stomach flipped excitedly. 



Shamefully, I found 7/11 for a ham and 
cheese toastie. White sugary bread encases a melted plastic cheese and shop floor ham filling. Distinctly un-Thai, but unable to be found anywhere else I have been, and for me it holds many happy memories. Of being an irresponsible drunk-packer, meeting new people and laughing away hangovers with these boiling hot pockets of anti-nutrition. 

Changing cultures

I forgot how friendly Indonesians are. Swaths of Indonesians move there for work from more remote islands, and despite the huge influx of foreigners to Bali, there is still bafflement with the outside world. Indonesia is still quite culturally cut off from the rest of the world, which helps preserve custom, and I think friendliness. Although Indonesians seem bored of overcrowding from tourism, their affability is catching and I began from Ngurah Rai airport, smiling and saying hello to as many as possible.

Thailand, with its' multitude of land borders and attraction as a major tourist destination, means more people pass through (making it harder to get off the beaten track). But this also makes Thailand an accepting place for cultural difference. I recognise most Thais are also welcoming, friendly and warm with a wicked sense of humour. I meander with a lost look on my face and a map and I am offered help. I ask a questions and jokes come back. 

Show respect for the ruling culture, and be welcomed tenfold.


You do, in places, get a small sense of 'God, not another one!' I'm determined not to be another one.  I would like to get off that ‘beaten track’. I want to learn the language and alphabet more than anywhere. I want to learn the correct way to Wai and good Thai manners. I am as ever, fascinated by this golden country, its' countless temples, idyllic islands and enthralling history. 

Island Review

So I write this from Koh Chang, hoping to change my ways ever so slightly and to make the conversion from backpacker to 'Thailand Enthusiast'. Toasties have not passed my lips for a week and I am trying more street food, falling more in love with the culture one mouthful at a time. In Bangkok I sampled more of the never-ending plethora of sites and sins on offer, had a fling with mango sticky rice and stayed just long enough to make friends with other English teachers. Read: long-termers.



I made my way to this blessed island and discovered mountains of various personalities. The quiet, heady, dark and exciting. Marvellous, crazy, unexpected and mild- much like the foods on my list, and the clean Buddhist life at odds with corrupt squalor. Thailand: a moving vestibule of yin and yang. 

To come: Getting lost in Koh Chang

Lonely Beach, Koh Chang